Food for Thought by Colleen Patrick-Goudreau

Musings on vegetarianism, veganism, meat-eating, non-violence, the use and abuse of animals in our society, and the joy (and sadness) that comes with being awake to and aware of the misery animals endure at the hands of humans - and how we have the power to stop it.

Friday, May 04, 2007

Vegan in Italy (Mostly Florence and Umbria)

With an emphasis on fresh local produce, olive oil instead of butter, and pizza without cheese, eating vegan in Italy is a breeze. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t require a little effort, because meat is definitely on all the menus, but once you know what to look for, you’ll have no problem enjoying local Italian cuisine as a joyful vegan.

EATING AT RESTAURANTS
*I have found that it’s less helpful to sit down at a restaurant and declare that you’re vegetarian. It almost seems to ignite indignance in the server, since many Italians just don’t understand not eating meat. I find it’s more helpful to scan the menu for what obviously looks like vegan dishes and just confirm with the server that it doesn’t have cheese. Most menus translate the Italian menu item name into English, so it’s easy to determine that something is vegan. And I’ve noticed that when a menu says “White beans in tomato sauce” or “Bruschetta with olive oil, garlic, and salt” that you can be pretty sure they don’t add something else that they didn’t list. So there are generally no surprises, But, to be sure, you can always order something like the dishes I mentioned above and just say “no formaggio, vero?” (“No cheese, right?”)

*When you see a sign for a Trattoria, it indicates a smaller family-owned restaurant with a more limited menu, so we didn’t generally eat at any.

*It’s pretty easy to tell which restaurants are the “fancier” ones that are a) overpriced and b) meat-heavy. It’s no different than the more upscale restaurants in the U.S. that think haute cuisine need include meat and dairy dishes. These more upscale restaurants have a lot less to offer.

*The vast majority of restaurants in the larger cities will reflect a traditional Italian menu, which consists of Antipasti (appetizers), Primi (first course), Secondo (main dish), Insalate (salads), Pizza, and Contorni (side dishes). Unless we were at an all-vegetarian restaurant, we never chose anything from Secondo, which were always meat- and dairy-heavy.

-Under the Antipasti section of the menu were often:
-bruschetta (either with just oil and garlic; garlic, oil, and tomatoes; or oil and mushrooms)
- “antipasti,” which you can often find vegetarian versions of, which consists of olives, roasted peppers, tomatoes, zucchini, mushrooms – just ask for no cheese.
-focaccia with oil, rosemary and salt

-Under “Primi” is where you’d find the pasta dishes – they’re pretty much first-course – not second-course dishes, so they’re smaller than you’d expect a main dish to be (because it’s supposed to be just a first course).
-my favorite pasta dish, which I make at home a lot and seems to be on every menu is Penne Arrabbiata, which is a spicy tomato sauce. Delicious. Again, ask for no cheese (“senza formaggio”), but I find they don’t put it on the pasta like Americans do.
-you’ll find other pasta dishes as well, such as spaghetti with pomodoro (tomato) sauce as well as spaghetti with olive oil and garlic.

-Under “Insalata,” there are a number of options, and even if they have meat or cheese in them, just find one that you can ask to have the meat and cheese removed.

-Under Contorni, you’ll find a number of dishes. We often ordered one Primi and two or three Contorni.
-White beans (Cannellini), either in olive oil or in tomato sauce, seem to be on every menu, and they’re just delicious any way they’re prepared.
-Grilled vegetables were always in this section of the menu – always great.
-Asparagus (often steamed – not grilled) was often on menus and prepared with just olive oil and served with lemon.
-Roasted potatoes – again with olive oil – were on almost every menu.
-French fries are on all menus, too.
-Long beans with lemon and olive oil are a standard, too.

-Pizza – Italians invented pizza, and one of the standards is Pizza Marinara, which is just basically tomato sauce and oregano. Even if you don’t see it on the menu, ask for a pizza with no cheese. The size of pizza is for one person, so don’t worry about ordering a whole pizza – it’s not that large.

*As far as desserts in restaurants, Macedonia di Frutta seemed to be an option almost anywhere, as was strawberries (either plain or in Grand Marnier). Unless you ate at a restaurant like il Vegetariano in Florence, where there are delicious vegan desserts a plenty, I think most pastries will have been made with egg or milk. There is a traditional Italian dessert (which originated in Siena and can be found in almost shop there). It’s called Panforte, and I actually include a recipe for Panforte in my cookbook. It’s basically just a culmination of dried fruit, nuts, and sugar (sometimes honey) and is delicious. “Margherita” is the standard, but there is also chocolate and other flavors. Some restaurants may have Panforte on their menus, but because it’s more of a confection than a dessert in the strict sense of the word, you may find it mostly in Siena or in shops to go.

*When ordering water (natural or with gas), the server will often ask you if you want just a glass or a bottle. We usually got a bottle. If you often do this, just order “acqua per due” (water for two), and they’ll just give you a bottle and two glasses.

FOOD TO GO
*You probably won’t want to sit down for every meal; it gets expensive, and it takes a long time. There are lots of options for quick meals on the go, and you’ll notice a lot of people snacking on pizza and panini as they walk around. Again, ask for pizza with no cheese, and though many panini places have sandwiches in the case already made, you can just ask for those that don’t have carne, formaggio, or pesce (meat, cheese, or fish). There were times they didn’t, and I just moved on if it was really crowded, but I also found places who were just willing to make me one with zucchini, eggplant, tomato, and oil and vinegar. Voila – instant yumminess.

*A lot of places also just have foccacia either plain (well, with olive of course) or with veggies baked right into them – such as roasted red peppers, tomatoes, or red onions. Really simple and delicious.

*Many places ask if you want something (like Focaccia) “caldo” (hot). It’s obviously much more delicious if you say “si!” whether it’s a Panini sandwich or just plain ol’ Focaccia.

*There are many street vendors that sell “macedonia di frutta,”which is fruit salad. It’s so pretty to see all the cups filled with strawberries, bananas, kiwi, apples, and pineapple. Those same vendors also sell freshly squeezed (right on the spot) orange juice. They do also make smoothies with the fresh fruit, but I noticed only cow’s milk (latte) – not any non-dairy milk. By the way, when you order the “Macedonia” from the street vendors, it seems that you can choose either two different fruits (not three or four) OR the fruit mix they already have combined.

GENERAL TIPS
*Butter (burro) isn’t really used in Italian cooking per se, so I never really worried about it; it was really only cheese I asked about. But feel free to say “no formaggio e no burro.”

*In terms of learning Italian, in preparing for your trip, I think it’s helpful if you learn some “food” words – not just “I would like,” which is “vorrei,” but what certain words are in Italian so you can identify them – words such as onion, pepper, garlic, zucchini, eggplant, etc. It’s also helpful to know the words for eggs (uove), milk (latte), meat (carne), and fish (pesce). Carry around a little reference guide so you can quickly identify these words. The guide I used and liked very much is Harper Collins Language Survival Guide – Italy. ISBN: 0060536934. It’s in my store at http://astore.amazon.com/compassiona02-20/detail/0060536934/002-1175387-3308023.

*If you have kitchen access, there are a number of produce stands with incredibly fresh fruit and vegetables.

*If you want to pack a couple vacuum-packed boxes of almond, rice, or soy milk, it’s not a bad idea. We were able to find almond milk in Florence, and though it was good (and fine for the cereal I had at our bed and breakfast), it doesn’t taste like what you’re used to in the U.S. It doesn’t taste like Almond Breeze. It tastes more like almond extract or marzipan. But this is also the case with something like orange juice, too. We bought a quart of it (vacuum-packed) at the store because my husband was still recovering from a sore throat), and something was just off about it. Rely on the freshly squeezed juice that the vendors sell.

*I’m an incurable Green Tea drinker, but you won’t find any here! I always travel with my own tea and little spoon strainers (perfect for one cup of tea), but sometimes I had to settle for bagged English Breakfast. Italy is a favorite destination for Brits, so Earl Grey is also on almost every menu. You will invariably be asked if you would like lemon with your tea. Milk (latte) isn’t served with the tea, but sugar is.

*As far as breakfast goes, we were always fine with some fruit before we hit the road; though I was happy when we discovered the cereal at the first B &B we stayed at in Florence. We didn’t even bother looking to see if any of the pastries (which is a traditional Italian breakfast) were vegan; we just assumed they wouldn’t be. The bulk of our visit was at Montali (http://www.montalionline.com/), where we were served a gourmet vegan breakfast and gourmet vegan dinner every night. Its location is very central (to lots of amazingly beautiful medieval Umbrian towns, and the property itself is breathtaking. I highly recommend making this place part of your stay. Tell them Colleen from Compassionate Cooks sent you. (They do charge 20% extra for vegan.)

*When you’re going to be out and about, especially in the smaller towns and roads, it’s helpful to have some nuts or granola with you just for a pick-me-up when needed.

FLORENCE RESTAURANT SUGGESTIONS

*il Vegetariano – We went here twice when we were in Florence. It’s about a 15-minute walk from the Duomo, and it’s worth it. Really good food, sizable portions, mostly vegan options. It’s helpful to know the system before you go: when you arrive, just scope out a table for the number of people in your party. Throw your jackets down on some chairs, and head to the front of the restaurant. Check out the options on the board (the vegan options have a green or red dot – it says), and decide what you want. Again, there will be Antipasti, Primi, Secondo, and Dessert options. We often got one primi and one secondo each, and it was PLENTY. The dessert usually put us over the top. Go to the guy sitting at the little desk and place your order. Then grab a tray, some flatware and a glass (if you ordered water), and get in line at the food counter. They’ll look at your slip of paper, and put everything you ordered on your tray. Return to your seat, and mangia!

*The market in front of San Croce church had lots of different types of bread and fruit. I don’t know if the market is there every day, but it was full of options. (Also, the church itself was really fantastic. It contains the monumental tombs of Galileo, Michelangelo, Machiavelli, Dante (actually a cenotaph), and many other notables.)

*Vegetus was a super casual place with good homestyle food. We had a really nice bean soup, a cabbage roll, and minestrone soup. The food was good (though a little oily), but we wish they didn’t serve the food (and heat it up) in plastic to-go containers. It was a nice lunch after walking for hours, and if you’re near the Boboli gardens and want to stop for a bite, it’s nice to support the vegetarian restaurants. Just don’t have high expectations about presentation. When we were leaving, they had just taken some homemade Focaccia out of the oven, which we took to go. Yum.

*B. Gallo was a traditional restaurant on the square that the Duomo sits on. The food was really good (it was a bit of a fancier place, and it was nice to sit right on the square), and besides the fact that our waiter had a snooty attitude, I would recommend this place. We each had the Penne Arrabbiata, and we shared the White Beans in Tomato Sauce, and Grilled Veggies. I was still a little hungry at the end, since I had burned a lot of calories walking all day! Next time, I might have ordered my own beans. Good food.

*Buca Niccolini was a traditional restaurant we found the first night in Florence, and the food was really good – and reasonably priced. It’s located on via Ricosoli – and when you’re seated, you’re staring right at the north side of the Duomo. There were several options of what they called “stuffed Focaccia,” which really wasn’t stuffed but rather more like “Focaccia pizza.” We each ordered our own and enjoyed them very much. One was olive tapenade and tomatoes, and one was just mushrooms/lettuce; they were both delicious. We also ordered grilled vegetables and white beans in olive oil, and everything was just yummy. In fact, these were the barometer by which we measured other beans we had the rest of the trip. A little salty but really yummy! J I highly recommend this place.

EATING OUTSIDE OF FLORENCE
*We visited a lot of small towns when we were in Umbria, and my general suggestions will suffice when traveling in these areas. If you want to stay in the most magnificent place in Umbria that is essentially a magical retreat that serves gourmet vegetarian breakfast and gourmet vegetarian dinner every day as included in the price of your stay (20% extra for vegan), you absolutely must visit Montali (http://www.montalionline.com/). The hosts/owners Alberto and Manu were born to do this work. They bought the land 20 years ago and built almost everything from scratch, including planting the 25 acres of olive trees on the property. They view is breathtaking – absolutely indescribable, and the food is divine. Chefs trained at the most highly regarded culinary schools come here to train. It’s just amazing, and I wish we could have stayed longer than the 5 nights were here. There’s so much to see in the surrounding area, and we did spend one day on the property just taking it all in, but it is truly a magical retreat. A private cookery course is also an option.

*Because we had breakfast and dinner every night at Montali, we only worried about lunch in the smaller towns, and we always found panini with veggies, pasta, pizza, Focaccia, etc. The menus in Umbria were a little different than those in Florence in that we didn’t find a lot of the white beans that we loved so much; plus, we were always looking for a quick lunch since we wanted to take in as much of the sites as possible. But, refer to my “GENERAL SUGGESTIONS,” and you’ll be fine.

No matter where I travel and whether or not I was vegan, I always find it a little exhausting eating every meal out. It’s not exactly how I eat when I’m home, and of course, it’s a little trickier when there’s a language barrier. So, just lighten up and be careful not to think there’s something wrong with being vegan having to navigate every meal in a restaurant. I think it’s par for the course when traveling.

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